Celebrity Clients: Tetsuya Wakada, By Craig McGill
I was lucky enough to spend a day in February fishing with my mate , internationally renowned chef Tetsuya Wakuda. Tets has spent the last year setting up his new restaurant Waku Ghin in Singapore so it had been a while since we had a chance to catch up. We kicked off the evening before with dinner at Sydney's best Japanese restaurant Azuma , leading to a somewhat hazy 6.30am start at double bay wharf the next morning where we were joined by Tets mates Colin and Sanae.
The action was nonstop. Moving straight to Rushcutters bay we found acres of bonito and their tropical brothers Watsons leaping bonito. After a couple of hours on them we decided to move to north harbour where we had been told that there were big schools of Mac tuna working the surface.
On the way down we were diverted by a couple of big schools of rat kings working on top in tailors bay and after landing a few fish decided to move on as Tets really wanted some Macs for the table.
North harbour was indeed alive with Mac tuna , a rare sight in Sydney and courtesy of an unseasonal warm current running at 25 degrees. At about 3kg they were awesome fun on light spinning gear and we took half a dozen before deciding it was time for some serious kingies.
Squid , for bait , are a mandatory first stop before any king fishing session and we managed to boat about 10 easily from quarantine and Neilson Park.
The action at ‘old yella' ( a yellow navigation marker off Neilson park) was hot and instant with kings scoffing every squid that hit the water. The first couple of fish were undersized but as the frenzy got going the size crept up . We managed to take home 4 between 90cm and a meter and got busted up by a few that were considerably bigger.
For Tetsuya the fishing experience is divided into two equal parts -- catching and cooking. However the line between the two is not as clear cut as it might sound and one transitions seamlessly into the other. Preparation of the fish, so important to Japanese style cooking, starts the instant the fish is boated. The fishing banter, recollections of the days sport, including exaggerations bordering lies, merge smoothly with the first round of entre' and chardonnay. A days ‘fishing' for Tets often turns into a 16 hour event and he draws no clear distinction of importance between the time on the water and time at the dinner table - they are an inseparable package. It's an attitude that carries a deep appreciation and respect of the individual fish and the magnificent harbour that provided them. It also sheds new light on species traditionally considered, by Australians, to be second and even third rate eating quality. These perceived low grade eating species , affectionately collectively known as mother-in-law fish , are generally the aftermath of our lazy, unimaginative cooking styles (my words , not Tets) and an inability to recognize the huge variation in flesh characteristics between species. We don't treat beef, pork and chicken all the same so why do we assume we can do it with seafood.
The Mac tuna we caught were consumed that evening but the kingfish were committed to 24-36 hours cold storage , to be 'hung' for much the same reason as we would with beef. Tets prefers to ‘age' or ‘relax' the kingfish whether it be destined for sashimi or cooking.
In general, it has long been my belief, that we over-cook nearly all our seafood.
Interview with Tets.
1. First fishing memory & with who
Hamana Lake, where I was born, catching Gobi/Haze by myself as a child.
2. Most memorable fishing experience
Catching record size kingfish with Craig McGill off Watson's Bay.
3. Best location you have ever fished & why
Sydney Harbour - for its beauty, clear water, peacefulness and view of our city from the water.
4. What species do you most enjoy targeting
Leatherjacket, trevally & mac tuna, our harbour is almost like a fish market, so many species.
5. What's the one fishing location you want to fish before you die
The Amazon & catch piranha, it fascinates me.
Blue fish tuna off Tasmania.
6. Best species to cook with
Tuna- it is so versatile.
7. How did you prepare /cook the mac tuna that we caught
Tataki style - skin side rubbed with salt , grilled and served with a dressing for dipping with soy, touch of mirin, grated ginger & garlic & a small amount of orange zest.
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